320W Metal Halide to LED — Full Replacement Guide
Whether you're upgrading a single fixture or retrofitting an entire facility, switching from a 320-watt Metal Halide to LED is one of the highest-ROI lighting decisions you can make.
1. Metal Halide vs. LED — What Actually Changes?
Metal Halide is an HID (High-Intensity Discharge) technology that produces light by passing an arc through a gas mixture inside a quartz arc tube. It offers good color rendering (CRI 65–93), but suffers from significant energy waste and a slow 3–5 minute warm-up period before reaching full brightness.
LED technology uses semiconductors to produce light directly from electricity with virtually no wasted heat. For your 320W fixture, a modern LED equivalent achieves the same 26,500 lumens at just 130W — no warm-up, no restrike wait, no lumen depreciation until year 5+.
2. Why Upgrade Now?
- Immediate Energy Savings: Cut your lighting bill by 59% per fixture from day one. At commercial run times (10+ hrs/day), that's $403.00/year per fixture.
- No More Maintenance Calls: Metal Halide bulbs last 6,000–15,000 hours. LEDs last 50,000+ hours — that's 5–10 years with no re-lamping, no lift rental, no labour cost.
- Better, Stable Light: MH bulbs shift color and dim significantly over their life. LEDs maintain consistent color and lumen output throughout their lifespan.
- No Warm-Up Time: MH takes 3–5 minutes to reach full brightness. LEDs are instant-on at 100%, critical for safety in warehouses, parking areas, and sports facilities.
3. Choosing the Right Color Temperature
When selecting your LED replacement, you'll choose a Kelvin color temperature rating:
- 3000K (Warm White): Hospitality, retail display, or any area where a warmer, inviting tone is preferred.
- 4000K (Neutral White): Office areas, retail floors, and food service. Clean and flattering without being harsh.
- 5000K (Daylight): The standard for warehouses, parking lots, sports courts, and outdoor flood applications. Maximizes perceived brightness and visibility.
4. Installation Options
For a 320W Metal Halide replacement, you have two main installation approaches:
- Ballast Bypass (Type B — Recommended): Remove the old ballast entirely and wire line voltage (120–277V) directly to the socket. This is the most reliable long-term solution. Eliminates the ballast as a point of failure and maximises LED lifespan.
- Plug-and-Play (Type A): Works with the existing ballast — easiest to install, but the ballast remains an extra point of failure. When the ballast eventually dies, you'll need a second service call.