70 Watt High-Pressure Sodium to LED Equivalent

By Editorial Team • Updated October 10, 2026

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Replacing a 70W High-Pressure Sodium bulb is one of the most effective ways to reduce energy costs. Modern LED replacements use only 25–45W to produce the same 5,700 lumens.

Quick answer: A 70W High-Pressure Sodium lamp is rated at about 6,400 initial lumens and averages about 5,700 lumens over its life. The LED equivalent is 25–45W for a lamp-for-lamp swap, and about the same (~30W) if you replace the whole fixture (see the worked example below). Either way, you replace a system that draws ~92W once the ballast is counted.

70W High-Pressure Sodium equivalent
5,700 lumens · Uses 62% less energy
Estimated annual savings: $32.46/year
(Based on 12 hours/day usage at $0.13/kWh. System wattage includes ballast factor.)
Lumie
Lumie's Tip: Choose high-efficiency LEDs with matching base types to enjoy maximum reliability and energy savings.
Check Prices for 25–45W LED Bulbs on Amazon →

Energy Savings Calculation

Current Bulb System 92 Watts (with ballast)
LED Replacement 25–45W
Lumen Output 5,700 lm
Efficacy 162.9 lm/W
Annual Energy Saved 249.7 kWh / yr
Annual Dollar Savings* $32.46 / yr
Commercial Facility Savings (25 Fixtures) $811.50 / yr
50,000-Hr Commercial Life Savings $370.50

*Based on 12 hours/day usage at $0.13/kWh. System wattage includes ballast factor.

Recommended Replacements

Best options based on ROI and application needs for replacing a 70W HPS lamp.

Economy Choice
25–45W LED Corn Bulb Retrofit (E26 Medium)

25–45W LED Corn Bulb Retrofit (E26 Medium)

Direct screw-in retrofit. Bypasses the existing ballast to deliver full 5,700 lumens with lowest upfront equipment cost.

Power: 25–45W Efficiency: ~130–140 lm/W Base: E26 Medium Wiring: Ballast Bypass (Type B)
Check Price on Amazon →
Best Value / ROI
25–45W UFO LED High Bay Fixture

25–45W UFO LED High Bay Fixture

Modern integrated fixture. Optimal thermal management, no legacy reflector losses, and fastest ROI with superior light distribution.

Power: 25–45W Lumens: 5,700 lm Mounting: Hook / Eye-bolt Warranty: 5 Years
Check Price on Amazon →
Premium / Pro
25–45W Commercial Grade Industrial LED Fixture

25–45W Commercial Grade Industrial LED Fixture

Heavy-duty industrial fixture with DLC certification for utility rebate eligibility. Engineered for continuous 24/7 commercial operation.

Rating: DLC Premium Listed Surge: 4–6kV Protection IP Rating: IP65 Wet Rated Warranty: 5–10 Years
Check Price on Amazon →

Engineering Analysis: 70W High-Pressure Sodium to LED Commercial Retrofit

Upgrading a commercial or industrial facility from 70-watt High-Pressure Sodium fixtures to solid-state LED systems delivers exceptional return on investment. With commercial utility rate structures, demand charges, and continuous 12-to-24 hour operational schedules, lighting retrofits frequently achieve full capital payback in under 12 to 18 months.

1. Initial vs. Mean Lumens: Why the Target Is 5,700 lm

A 70W High-Pressure Sodium lamp is rated at about 6,400 initial lumens, but averages roughly 5,700 mean lumens over its life, a 11% decline while still drawing full power. HPS holds its output better than most HID sources, so the gap is relatively small; its bigger weakness is color (CRI around 20–22). Quality LED products are rated by L70 (hours until output falls to 70% of initial), commonly 50,000 hours or more. That is why this page targets 5,700 mean lumens (real-world working light) rather than the initial rating.

2. Hidden Ballast Load

HID lamps cannot run directly on line voltage; they need a ballast (typically magnetic) to start and regulate the arc. For a 70W High-Pressure Sodium lamp, the ballast adds about 22W (31%), so the fixture draws roughly 92W at the meter. Converting to direct-wire Type B LED hardware removes the ballast completely, cutting demand from 92W to 25–45W.

3. Commercial Facility Savings & Demand Charge Reductions

Operating on an industrial duty cycle of 12 hours per day, 365 days per year:

4. Primary Applications for 70W High-Pressure Sodium Retrofits

In commercial and municipal applications, 70W High-Pressure Sodium fixtures are typically deployed in residential streetlights, dusk-to-dawn yard and barn lights, small building wall packs, and entry security lights. The physical envelope corresponds to ED17 (also BD17 or ED23½) bulb with an E26 medium or E39 mogul base.

Swapping the monochromatic amber of HPS (CRI around 20–22) for an LED with CRI 70–80+ makes colors identifiable again: vehicle colors, clothing, and faces on security camera footage.

System draw drops from about 92W (lamp plus ballast) to 25–45W.

Quick Reference: 70W HPS Lamp vs. LED Replacement

Spec70W HPS lampLED replacement
ANSI ballast codeS62None (ballast removed)
Bulb & baseED17 (also BD17 or ED23½) bulb with an E26 medium or E39 mogul baseCorn bulb on the same base, or an integrated fixture
Light output6,400 initial / 5,700 mean lm5,700 lm target
Power at the meter~92W including ballast25–45W
Color~2,000–2,100K, CRI ~20–222700K–5000K, CRI 70–80+
Rated life24,000+ hours50,000+ hours (L70), typical
Warm-up / restrikeSeveral minutes / about 1 minuteInstant

What's Specific to the 70W HPS Retrofit

The medium-base trap

Many 70W HPS lamps use an ordinary-looking E26 medium base, so it is tempting to screw in a household LED bulb. Don't: the fixture still contains a ballast and an ignitor that fires starting pulses of several thousand volts, which will destroy a standard LED bulb. Use a lamp rated for direct-wire (Type B) installation and remove or bypass both the ballast and the ignitor first.

Keep the photocell

Most 70W dusk-to-dawn fixtures switch on with a built-in photocell. After a ballast bypass the photocell still works, because it simply switches line voltage to the socket. If the light cycles or stays on after the conversion, replace the photocell with one rated for LED loads.

Pick 3000K or warmer near homes

The American Medical Association's 2016 community guidance on street lighting recommends a color temperature of 3000K or lower for outdoor lighting to limit glare and blue-rich light at night. For yards, driveways, and residential streets, a 2700K–3000K LED is the closest comfortable match to the HPS glow your neighbors are used to.

Sizing From Delivered Light (Worked Example)

The 5,700 lm target above is a lamp-for-lamp match, which is the safe choice for a screw-in corn bulb. If you are replacing the whole fixture, you can often target fewer lumens. HID lamp ratings describe the bare lamp, and part of that light is lost inside the housing and reflector, while LED fixture ratings are measured for the complete fixture (IES LM-79 absolute photometry).

Example: if your existing fixture is 70% efficient, it delivers about 4,000 lm. An LED fixture producing 4,000 lm at 130 lm/W draws about 30W, versus ~92W today. Treat this as an estimate; the fixture maker's photometric report or a lighting layout is the authoritative answer.

5. Commercial Installation: Type B Ballast-Bypass Protocol

For maximum electrical efficiency and long-term reliability, a Type B (ballast-bypass) conversion is standard engineering practice:

  1. Disconnect Power: Lock out and tag out the circuit breaker supplying the lighting circuit.
  2. Bypass the Ballast: Disconnect the incoming line voltage (120–277V) and neutral wires from the legacy magnetic or electronic ballast. Cut or remove the ballast entirely, along with the ignitor and capacitor if the fixture has them (an ignitor left in the circuit sends high-voltage pulses that can destroy an LED driver).
  3. Wire Directly to Sockets: Connect line voltage directly to the socket leads according to the manufacturer's installation diagram.
  4. Label the Fixture: Affix the provided warning label inside the fixture housing indicating that the fixture has been modified to run line voltage and will no longer accept legacy High-Pressure Sodium lamps.
⚠️ CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING: High-output commercial LED retrofits require proper ballast disconnection. Powering a Type B direct-wire LED lamp through an active ballast will damage the internal driver and can create an electrical hazard. Always verify circuit voltage and wiring before restoring power. Installation by a licensed commercial electrician is strongly advised.